60W 12V or 24V indoor LED driver

This is a mid-sized LED driver – the power supply that sits between mains and low-voltage lighting. This is the size most domestic jobs land on: a room of strip lighting, a garden bed of spike lights, or a run of step lights down a staircase. It takes mains power and converts it down to 12V or 24V DC.

It is rated to carry up to 60W of LED load. That figure is a ceiling, not a target – which matters more than it sounds.

At this size the driver stops being an afterthought and starts shaping the installation. It has to live somewhere reachable, it has to be allowed for in the cabling, and it is the component most likely to want attention before the fittings do.

Working out what size you need

Add up the wattage of every fitting on the run, then choose a driver rated comfortably above that total rather than one that just covers it. Running a supply at its limit is the most common cause of early failure: it runs hotter, and heat is what kills a power supply.

Spare capacity is also what lets a scheme grow. Gardens and rooms gain fittings over time, and a driver chosen with headroom absorbs that; one chosen exactly does not.

This driver is made in both output voltages, and they are not interchangeable. Check which one your fittings need before ordering – the two look identical on the shelf and behave very differently on the run.

Where it can be installed

Indoors this wants a dry, ventilated position with access: a ceiling void with a manhole nearby, a cupboard, or the top of a joinery run. Plan the access as part of the job rather than hoping it will not be needed.

For anything outdoors, in a bathroom zone, or in a spot that could see condensation, use a weatherproof driver instead. An indoor driver installed outside is a failure waiting to happen, and again, not a warranty claim.

Dimming

This driver is dimmable via TRIAC (leading edge).

Dimming a low-voltage LED system happens at the driver, not at the fitting, so the driver and the dimmer or control system have to speak the same protocol. Confirm that before ordering – a mismatch usually shows up as flicker, a stunted dimming range, or the lights simply not responding.

Installation

The mains side of a driver is licensed electrical work and must be wired by an electrician. Decide where the unit will live before the lights go in: it needs to stay reachable, because it is the part most likely to need attention years down the track.

Give it air. A driver at this capacity sheds real heat, and one packed into insulation or sealed into a tight box will run hot and shorten its own life whatever its rating says.

Frequently asked questions

What does an LED driver actually do?

It converts mains down to the low-voltage DC that LED fittings run on, and holds that output steady as the load changes. Low-voltage lighting cannot be connected to mains directly.

How much lighting will 60W run?

Add up the wattage of the fittings you want to power – the total needs to stay under 60W, with room to spare. The wattage of each fitting is listed on its own specification.

Does the output voltage have to match my fittings?

Yes. This driver outputs 12V or 24V DC and the fittings must be rated for the same. Mixing them either leaves the lights dead or destroys them.

Can it be installed outside?

No. At IP20 it has no weather protection, so it has to stay in a permanently dry location. Use a weatherproof driver outdoors.

What do I need to dim it?

A dimmer or control system that matches TRIAC (leading edge). The dimming happens at the driver, so the two have to agree.

Do I need an electrician?

Yes, for the mains side. Connecting a driver to mains is licensed electrical work in Australia.

What warranty does it carry?

3 Years*